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 The Medina of Tetouán

UNESCO heritage.

The Medina is a good place to get lost, explore its corners, contemplate its lattices, listen to the sound of footsteps on the cobblestones, stop to enjoy the smells of spices, bread and pasta fresh from the oven.

 

The medina is discovering alleys, hearing the children running through its alleys or reciting the Qur'an in the madrasah, sitting down to have tea, contemplating the old people, talking with its inhabitants ...

The Neighborhoods of the Medina

 

The Medina, walled in its entirety, is made up of five neighborhoods:
- To the south is Tranqat , next to the Ensanche (commercial district).
- To the east, Blad (aristocratic neighborhood), where the best houses in the city are located.
- To the west, Aaiun or the sources (most popular).
- To the southeast Suica the oldest and the Mellah or Jewish quarter, next to the Feddan , Main Square in front of the Royal Palace.

 

We can visit the medina by accessing through the different gates of the wall:

 

Bab Nouaded Gate, from Fez or Regular,  west of the medina

Neighborhood characterized by steep streets and by the abundance of fountains. Its main street is very commercial and busy and in it we will find the great Ayun Mosque, built in 1591 for the Moors, one of the most beautiful in the medina.

Following the street and after crossing an archway, you enter Nyari Street in the Tranqat neighborhood, where you will find the 16th century Zagüia El Fasia and the M´Sendi Mosque, with a high minaret and a beautiful door. This street ends at the Arco de los Herreros, which gives access to the Plaza de Suq el Foqui, one of the highlights of the Medina, with the mosque of the same name built by the Spanish Moors.

 

Bab Tut Gate, from Tangier or from El Cid, to the south next to the expansion.

Through this door and following the right direction we enter Tranqat street, eminently commercial for fruits, vegetables, fish and chinaware, where the Zagüia de Mouley Mohamed stands out, with a tall white minaret.
At the end of this street part to your right is Kaid Ahmed street where you will find the magnificent house of Abdeljalad Torres and the Baxa mosque from the 18th century, ending at the Feddan.

 

Feddan Square and Bab Ruah Wind Gate

Former souk, today a wide and beautiful square recently remodeled (1988) in the style of a main square with a central fountain at ground level, losing its old Nasrid character. It gives access to the Royal Palace, remodeling of the Jalifa palace, an old Mexuar from the 17th century and the Spanish High Police Station.

On the right bank of the palace are the Zagüias of Sidi Abdelá el Hach and Sidi Ali Ben Aisa, with beautifully decorated minarets, along with several cafeterias.
On the left bank there are many shops, official buildings and the entrances to the Mellah or Jewish quarter.

Next to the palace is the Bab Ruah Trade Arch, which gives access to Tarrafín Street, one of the largest and most beautiful in the Medina. Remodeled by the Junta de Andalucía, it is covered with wooden arches and it is full of jewelers and textile shops.

At the end of this street we turn left to access the Suq el Hot or Fish Square, dominated by the old Almandari citadel, a place where Yebelia women abound selling their famous aprons.

Crossing the wall we arrive at the Yemma Kasba from the 15th century, the oldest in the medina, next to the Al Mandari house. Very close to it is the El Usaa square, the most charming, covered by a trellis. This small square was a place of inspiration for writers and painters, in it is the zagúia of Sidi Abbás el Septi, patron saint of Ceuta.

From the Suq el Hot square, along the Kasdarin street you can access the Guersa el Kebira square, an old orchard, today full of sellers of used goods and antique dealers. In it stands out the madrassa and mosque of Lucas from the 18th century, today an exhibition hall.

 

Lunette door  

It gives entrance to the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter next to the Feddan, its main street Luneta where you can still appreciate the old splendor of this street, with its magnificent houses and the old Reina Victoria theater, ending at the door of Bab Remur or Luneta.

Next to it, to the left, a network of streets characterized by being very narrow and straight, were the residence of the Jews until the arrival of the Spanish, preserving the old Bengualid synagogue.

 

Bab Okla or Queen's Gate

Located to the east of the Medina next to the 19th century Escala fortress, today an ethnographic museum, forming a group of typical appearance, painted on several occasions by Bertuchi.

In front, after crossing the Mesda square, where fish from Martil are sold, you come to Tarafín street, passing by the Saquí Foquia mosque with a high minaret.

On the left we enter the Suica neighborhood, the oldest part of the Medina. With a family atmosphere, it is home to the 17th century Jadida Mosque and the 12th century Lala Fariya zagüia, a highly venerated saint. This neighborhood communicates with the Mellah.

 

Bab Saida or San Fernando Gate

Located after the previous one, it gives access to the Blad neighborhood, the most stately and aristocratic, where the best mansions are located.

To your right is the Zagüia de Sidi Saidi from 1609, the most typical of the medina. Next to it is the Cemetery of the Martyrs, who fell in the siege of Ceuta.

If we continue inland we arrive at the Great Mosque, the largest in the medina, which was built in 1807 with a high minaret and a large central courtyard. Next to it we enter Metamar Street, the loneliest area and difficult to navigate with the houses of Buhlal, Bricha, Afailal, Yenui, Erzini, etc., some of them easily accessible as they are restaurants. In this neighborhood the dungeons were located where the Christian captives were locked up. From here you can easily reach the Zagüia of Sidi Ali Ben Raisún, from 1823 on Siaguin Street, with a magnificent octagonal minaret decorated with colored tiles, and the Rbata Mosque from the 16th century.

 

Bab Maqabar gate, of Ceuta or of cemeteries

Beautifully designed door. Next to it you can visit the tanneries, Jarrafin or Babucheros street and the Harrak hall where Muley Mehdi, former khalifa of the protectorate, is buried, highlighting its magnificent door.

The Jewish or Castile cemetery,  on the slopes of the Dersa, next to the Muslim but further from the wall that closes the Medina.  It was accessed through the Bab Jiaf gate, near Bab Saida. Currently the cemetery is completely closed by a wall and guarded by a guard. Its appearance is very careful, there are numerous tombs, including those of important rabbis.

 

 

Handicraft shopping

There are several bazaars in the city center, on Mohamed V street and inside the medina. visit the Craft Center, next to the old railway station.

If you want modern branded items, ask about the new Bab Nuaded and Gurna souks.

The medina is also one of the best places to eat in Tetouan.

 

 

The corner

El Rincón is a good place to shop, its handicraft and leather goods stores are famous, taste Mediterranean fish or grilled meats in its restaurants and beach bars, especially in July, when its famous Mussen, of national interest, is celebrated.

 

Source:  Guiademaríritu.com

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